http://areyoutargeted.com/survival/best-shielding-practices/
I have gathered here the best available information on how to protect yourself from directed energy weapons. When I say “best”, I’m talking about cost effectiveness.
Your funds are probably not unlimited
Unless you are willing to spend a small fortune on detection equipment, you may never know exactly what you’re being attacked with. You will have to go by the symptoms you’re experiencing, which can be misleading.
I recommend eliminating all possibilities by taking all the steps listed below, but you may not be able to afford doing so. In my opinion you should protect yourself from microwave radiation no matter what, since long term exposure is dangerous even at low levels that you can’t perceive.
Take the appropriate actions based on your situation.
| Your situation | Recommended shielding actions |
|---|---|
| Long term resident | RF-proof your walls and windows (steps 1 through 4) |
| Short term resident, or too broke to paint dwelling | Obtain microwave-proof clothing (step 5) |
| Frequent traveler | Obtain microwave-proof clothing (step 5), particularly bed sheets, and take microwave-proof items with you on trips |
| Getting pain from implants | Are you sure you’re implanted? Obtain microwave-proof clothing (step 5) that covers the suspected implants; if it doesn’t work, consider the possibility that you’re not implanted. |
| Getting remotely induced pain and other sensations that do not come from implants; advanced surveillance that appears to be able to read your mind | Obtain steel cap (step 6) |
A step-by-step guide
Step 1. Paint your walls and ceiling with iron-laced paint.
(Note: you could also use graphite powder in place of iron, at a ratio of 6 parts paint to 1 part graphite. Graphite powder is available at most arts supply stores.)
Iron filings can function as a highly effective shielding material. You will need to mix them with paint to get them to bind to your walls. A ratio of 16 parts paint to one part iron filings works well. At this ratio, you will need two pounds of iron filings per gallon of paint.
I recommend mixing the iron filings with a type of latex paint that is transparent when it dries. It will sometimes be called “neutral base” or “deep base”; if you aren’t sure, ask. Because the paint is meant to be transparent, the iron filings will tint the paint a light gray. This is how you verify that your paint is well-mixed before you apply it.
Apply your iron-laced paint with a roller instead of a brush if at all possible. Two coats will probably be necessary.
For best results, you will also need to paint your doors – all sides of them. If this is out of the question, you can cover them with foil or Mylar in step 3.
A nice feature of iron-laced paint, as opposed to graphite-laced paint, is that the resulting coat of paint will be weakly attracted by magnets. It is easy to verify the integrity of an iron-based paint job by running a rare earth magnet over the surface.
You can get iron filings at about $5 per pound at Magically Magnetic – they’re marketed as “magnetic paint” additive, and the “1 gallon” container has 8 pounds of iron filings. There are many, many suppliers of iron filings, but they appear to have the best prices.
Step 2. Put fine metal screens on your windows.
These types of screens are typically used to keep insects out. Metal screens also greatly reduce the intensity of incoming RF and microwave radiation in a wide range (typically from about 40 MHz to 10 GHz for steel). For this purpose, steel will be much better than aluminum, but you will have to treat a steel window screen for rust resistance.
You can get these kinds of screens anywhere you get home improvement supplies.
Step 3. Patch any holes in your coverage with metallized Mylar sheets or aluminum foil.
Metallized Mylar by the roll. Notice how smooth the unrolled sheet is.
You will need to cover your windows, and possibly cracks in your doorways, and maybe even go under your carpets (although I haven’t found this necessary).
You can simply tape the foil or Mylar to the walls or other objects, shiny side away from you. You may find that you have to patch multiple strips of foil or Mylar together to get the coverage you need.
Metallized Mylar sheets come in much larger widths, which is good for patching, and they also look much neater than patched together strips of aluminum foil – they are easier to explain to visitors. On the other hand, the metal film on Mylar sheets is so thin that you can see through it in a well-lit area. Aluminum foil will offer more protection, and it is cheaper.
Metallized Mylar sheets are often used in grow rooms as a light/UV intensifier. You will be able to find them by the roll at hydroponics supply shops. For example, I found rolls online at Discount Hydroponics and New England Hydroponics. I’ve heard a report that you can get metallized Mylar blankets at Wal*Mart for $1 each.
Step 4. Ground your shielding.
An electrical outlet. The bottom hole is the ground hole.
Run an insulated wire from your shielding surface to the ground hole of an electrical outlet. The metal part of the wire must touch the shielding surface, and also the inside of the ground hole.
This can be a very simple step if you’ve thoroughly painted your walls, and your windows are covered with a metal film that touches the walls; your entire living quarters will have a single shielding surface from an electrical point of view. In this case, you need only obtain a 3-6 inch wire, strip the ends, bend it, stick one end into a ground hole of an outlet, and let the other end dangle in such a way that it rests against the wall.
Step 5. To protect yourself from microwave attacks when you’re not at home, microwave-proof your clothes.
You will need to get clothes that you can apply screen-printer’s ink to. You’ll also need iron filings or graphite powder. For details, read my article on creating microwave-proof clothing.
Step 6. To protect yourself from remotely induced pain and other sensations, wear a steel or iron cap.
The cap must be made of iron or magnetically susceptible steel – not stainless steel (which isn’t attracted by magnets). Medieval armor dealers sell scale mail helmets, which are heavy, but will work. Currently, the lightest cap available is my V2K cap, weighing roughly 2 pounds.
Notes.
You can explain away your paint job simply by saying you like the color. Alternatively, you could say that you’re an electronics hobbyist and the paint job protects your equipment.
You can point out that the metallized Mylar or aluminum foil over your windows serves as an insulator and helps keep heating/cooling costs down.